Dates for Health & Longevity

After oil, dates are Saudi Arabia's most important export. There are many kinds of dates to choose from, and the small grocery store on campus has several packaged varieties and many others to buy in bulk. I've always liked dates, and with such an overwhelming selection I decided to start small with a beautifully packaged black box with gold lettering. Much like a gift box. As I opened the dates yesterday, I was surprised not only that each date was sealed in its own special foil pouch, but the inscription on the box also had a surprise: "The Messenger said, 'Whoever has seven Ajwa dates every morning he will not be harmed on that day by poison or magic.'" Elsewhere on the box, more good news about dates and the fact that science has confirmed a number of benefits of dates. I won't get into all of the benefits here, but I can feel good about eating dates. They really were good, but I think I will work up to 7 at a time.

Unlike many previous New Year's Eves, we actually have some pretty exciting plans for tonight. We're getting dressed up, have hired a car and driver and are going to the US Consulate New Year's Eve party in Jeddah with another couple. I still haven't really been to Jeddah, other than arriving at the airport. We were going to take the bus in to the city on Wednesday night but we had a huge thunderstorm and the buses were cancelled due to flooding. I didn't know it rained so hard in Saudi Arabia, but that is just one of the things I have already learned.

View outside our villa in rainstorm

We had dinner the night of the thunderstorm at the Golf Club Restaurant with another couple, their 3 kids, and another friend of Bill's who is awaiting the arrival of his wife and 2 daughters. Among the 8 of us, we ordered pizza, hamburgers, fish and chips (with the biggest fried prawn I've ever seen), fillet mignon and curry chicken and rice. There are many fruit drinks to choose from on all of the menus here. One person got a fresh-made lemonade with chopped mint. We have also tried pomegranate "beer" (in the style of ginger "ale") and a carbonated elderflower drink. The most interesting thing I have tried so far was a brownish-red drink with a very floral aroma that is served with pine nuts floating in it. I asked the name and was told more than once, but I may need to make notes of the unfamiliar things I am trying since their names are foreign and hard to remember at first. Anyway, I liked the drink with pine nuts even though I don't think I've ever had anything like it before.

After dinner at the Golf Club, we were invited to our friends' house to smoke hookah. Most of what I know about hookah pipes is from Alice in Wonderland and the groovy caterpillar who smokes one. I've seen hookah water pipes before, but it was the first time that I actually smoked a hookah. The tobacco is kept in the refrigerator and comes in many flavors: grape, strawberry, lemon, etc. You put the tobacco in the bowl, cover it with special foil and poke holes through the foil. Then you light small charcoal briquettes and set them on top of the foil lid, draw in through the pipe, and voila! You're smoking a hookah pipe! It's tobacco, so the effect of smoking is similar to other tobacco use. Bill calls it relaxing. I thought my lungs felt kind of weak the next morning so I'm not sure how much future smoking I'm going to do, but considering there aren't many vices readily available here, it was a welcome diversion. I should also add that the conversation was good too, and it is great getting to know some of the people who have come to KAUST.

Amy's First Day

Traveling on Christmas Day was a good idea since the airports were fairly quiet. Everything went smoothly, and despite all my worrying, Wally and I both made it to Jeddah safely. There was barely a delay, which I was grateful for, considering all of the problems in Europe for holiday travelers. It was a relief to see Wally's big kennel come out on the baggage belt, and other than being a little stressed, he made it, no problem. It was a little funny that after all I went through to get the pet import paperwork completed accurately, no one asked for or looked at my documents. All of the running around to the vet, the USDA, sending paperwork to a visa processing service to go to the US State Department and then to the Saudi Embassy was completely unappreciated. The KAUST representative who met me did all of the explaining to the staff at Immigration and Customs, and Wally got nothing but a cursory check by the inspector. None of my luggage was opened, no one asked me anything special. Frankly it was a relief. I was emotionally drained after imagining Wally's experience in the kennel for 24 hours, so I didn't mind not having to present any paperwork.

Instant coffee is really big here. I was skeptical, but it's not like the Sanka I remember. We have our coffee maker coming in the sea shipment, but I've had instant coffee on 3 occasions now and it really is pretty good. But I wouldn't blame anyone if they didn't believe me because I didn't believe it was true either. I was really surprised how far instant coffee has come. I should be able to survive until the real coffee maker arrives. Bill bought some canned evaporated milk that he says the locals drink in their coffee, and it makes it really rich. I haven't had the opportunity to try Turkish coffee yet, but I'm sure I will.

Villas on campus.

We did a walking tour of part of the campus. I will have to retrace my steps several times and memorize the landmarks before I start feeling really comfortable, but I have a map so I should be able to learn my way around pretty quickly. Only a few wrong turns so far.

Last night we were fortunate enough to enjoy home-cooked Lebanese food. Friends of Bill's who had hosted him previously invited us over for dinner, and we had a fantastic time. It was great to meet engaging and friendly people so soon after my arrival, and our hosts and the other guests were fun to talk to all evening about economics, shopping in Jeddah, travel experiences of being detained at immigration points, as well as other highlights of travel, particularly in this part of the world. My sides hurt from laughing, which was a good feeling, and a relief to learn that I will be able to make friends here. Bill has been telling me that he has met lots of great people, but it is nice to be here and finally meet some of them myself.

Holiday in the Kingdom



Souk

 So what does one do on their first holiday season in the Kingdom? Well, as a warm-up to Christmas Eve day, I would suggest a marathon round of golf (27 holes) and a Budweiser NA or two (blah!) You should then top it off with a trip to the Jeddah souks for an evening-long session of shopping for thobes, jewelry, watches and incense. And if you are feeling really adventerous, stop by Al Biak (KSA's version of Kentucky Fried Chicken) for some broasted chicken, shrimp and fries - don't forget your heart meds.

En-Lazar Reef

Chrimas Eve day should always involve a scuba diving trip in the Red Sea. Our destination was Rose Reef and En-Lazar Reef, two great locations for plenty of sight seeing - underwater, of course. Speaking of which, the diving off KAUST is great! Reefs and wrecks abound all within about a 1 hour boat ride and with a water temperature that averages 80 deg., you can understand why this area is one of the top 10 destination diving areas world-wide. Unfortunately, you can't just get on an airplane and fly here, but, there is always hope for change. Christmas Eve, a number of us caravaned up north to King Abdullah Enconomic City to dine at Al Sayyadiyah, a fish restraunt that has been recommended by several KAUSTians. We sampled appetiziers and several Hammour dishes (grouper). It was all delicious and really got us in the Holiday spirit. So if you ever happen to be Saudia Arabia during Christmas, please consider this must-do itinerary. Merry Christmas!

Finally, an Update!

Suffice to say, the last five weeks since my arrival have been quite hectic. Work has been a new adventure every day as I am still trying to figure out just exactly what I should be doing and then do it in such a way that I don't offend any one's cultural sensibilities - more on that subject later. As Amy alluded to in the previous posting, it has been quite a process to get her travel visa. I have made dozens of trips over the Government Affairs office trying to get to the bottom of everything, but only learning just enough to make sure I have to come back the next day for a new answer. So, as we say here, in'shallah, we hope to get her visa this week.


I have moved into our semi-permanent accommodation, a 2 bedroom, 3 bath townhouse, which has followed the apparent design mantra of KAUST - the more unusable space the better. But hey, at least the plumbing works (so far). I have a small, four-legged room mate that I can not seem to catch even with help of our local vermin exterminator. But we will keep trying, and in'shallah, the mouse will be no more. I have also made several trips to Jeddah to buy some household necessities, which can be found most conveniently at our local IKEA. What would we do with out IKEA? I have also been making weekly pilgrimages to SACO World, Saudi Arabia's version of Home Depot. All the residential electrical is 220v, European two-prong outlets, so I had to buy a drill and electrical cord to meet these specs since I burned up my rechargeable drill that I brought over from the States. This of course means that I need to invest in a converter so we can use our 110v appliances that we shipped over - the one thing that I have not been able to find, even at SACO World - in'shallah, I will find a converter.


Our air shipment arrived no problem and I assembled the bikes and unpacked all of the kitchen goods in anticipation of Amy's imminent arrival and her need to start cooking right away and my need to start eating at "home". As for entertainment, I have joined the golf club and am playing 3-4 times a week (Dad, it is not helping) and am taking advantage of the great scuba diving operation they have going here. Then, there is also the rec leagues, bowling alley, theatre, library, beach, parks, community groups, etc. You would have to work at it to be bored here, unless you REALLY like sitting in your villa all day. Meeting new people is a regular pastime and a real key to developing your experience and enjoyment here at KAUST.


As for travel, our first trip out of the Kingdom is scheduled for the last week of January. I am attending a conference in Bahrain and Amy is going along as well, so we will be staying a couple of extra days for some R&R. Several of my Lebanese acquaintances have told me that you just have to visit Beruit! Nice hotels, great restaurants and a happening nightlife, so stay tuned for more on that. The point being, one needs to take long weekends out of the Kingdom at least every two months, if not every month, just to maintain your sense of "cultural equilibrium". So that's my plan and I'm sticking to it.

Last but not least, I have finally made contact with "THE" person as the US Consulate in Jeddah who puts your name on the all important list to be notified of Consulate events and parties - YES! So, I have secured our RSVP to the New Year's Eve party and will be attending with some other folks from KAUST. Should be a really good time and I hope to post some photos.


SO, Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to all - may you have a productive and prosperous 2011, in'shallah!

Jingle Bells

As it turns out, getting my visa really IS taking 4-6 weeks. There is just one more hurdle in the process, and the officer at the Saudi Embassy will be able to affix the official visa seal, stamp my passport, and send it back to me.


With the disappointment that I will not be able to leave in 2 days as planned, I console myself with thoughts of how smoothly things have gone in nearly every other pre-move category. We successfully sold the house, the cars, all of our furniture, completed the air and sea shipments to our new home, and I have Wally's pet import documents all in order. We have had time to spend with friends and family as we've prepared to leave, and that has been wonderful.


Another detail that has gone really well is that I have an ideal roommate scenario with my sister-in-law at her spacious and comfortable house in Boulder, CO while I wait to leave. I have finally had time to relax, do some reading, get some exercise, repack my suitcases--the last belongings I have with me. This break is much-needed after the stress and rushing around I had to do to finish everything in Salt Lake. It was a lot of work to get everything moved out of the house (packed for shipment, sold, given away, donated or discarded).


It was kind of strange once it was all done, but I felt relieved to finish and leave with 3 suitcases and the dog. I feel it has been a terrific accomplishment, organizing and reducing our belongings, and getting this far. I spent my last day in Salt Lake dealing with items that had put us over the shipping weight limit: making trips to DI, returning purchases of heavy items, and sorting through belongings to pass on to friends. I spent 2 nights at a generous friend's house where Wally had to keep quiet and behave since it's a no-dogs apartment building, and Wally was confused and un-nerved. For 2 days, he was confused at the dramatic changes to his routine, but arriving at Marcy's, he has settled down and has been enjoying some good chewin' and playin' with Marcy's Australian Shepherd.


Another thing that went really well was that a friend bought our second car, my Subaru wagon, and drove all the way from Salt Lake City to Boulder with me. She provided much-appreciated company and driving relief during the 8 hours. It worked out well since I had a companion and a buyer for my vehicle, and she got a great, reliable vehicle without having to shop at a car dealership.

Marcy has been getting the house ready for Christmas, and putting on the holiday cheer. The Santa collection lines the mantle, and she's getting a tree that we'll decorate tomorrow. It's a good feeling to be here even though I'm disappointed I'm not underway yet for the beginning of my experience in a foreign country, and Bill and I are both really missing each other and being together during these days. It will be very exciting to arrive and be able to hear the in-person accounts of everything that is too much to tell on the phone or via Skype.


I did hear an account of a Winter Break Bazaar at Discovery Square, the main plaza at KAUST. Food booths, gifts and handmade goods for sale, and surprisingly, not only were they playing live music, Bill said, they were playing CHRISTMAS music. Rockin' Around the Christmas Tree, as well as Silver Bells and others. I can't wait to go and see for myself. Maybe I will take a flight on Christmas Day.

"To Do" List for Leaving the Country

It's the season for making lists, and Bill and I have checked off a lot of things from a lot of lists.

One big thing on the list was Bill's iquama, or work permit, which he obtained fairly quickly after his arrival in Saudi Arabia. This is a critical document since we needed that to apply for my visa. Immediately upon my return from North Carolina where I spent Thanksgiving, I sent a copy of Bill's iquama, together with my passport, medical reports, several photos, marriage license, criminal history report (which reports "no criminal history," just for the record), pre-paid airbill and money order to the Royal Embassy of Saudi Arabia. With any luck, I will get my passport back with the visa stamp I need to travel to Jeddah.

I had a long list of items to complete before leaving Salt Lake for Boulder, CO where I am staying with Bill's sister, Marcy. I really had no idea it would all take so much time or be so stressful. The shipment of our sea freight turned out to be the most problematic task, though the pet importation process is running as a close second-place contender.

We thought we would have no problem staying under the 837 lb. weight limit since we took only one piece of furniture: Bill's roll top desk. With that coming in at 170 lbs, my collection of heavy pots and pans, cookware, silverware, dishes, bath rugs and towels, not to mention clothes, shoes and bedding had just a 667 lb. allowance remaining.

The dog toys almost missed the boat, but since I had picked up new, dog-thrilling toys specifically for my favorite dog, and since I was warned dog toys are tough to find, I found room for 15 lbs of dog products in order to keep Wally happy once we arrive at our destination. How could I leave behind the new tough-sewn octopus or the brand new "genius" kong?

I had to cull books, my Kitchen Aid mixer, a heavy stock pot, several prints, a much-loved mirror and a not-very-much-loved vacuum. I am trying to concentrate on the victories of the packing and everything that did get to go and how happy I will be to see some of our things once the shipment arrives. And some of the books are going to end up going in my luggage after all.

Driver's License

Translation office

What an adventure the driver's license was - a lot of raised eyebrows from everyone, many documents were stamped, money changed hands, inshalla.

First stop, a local convenience store to buy the special green folder you need for all your documents - 2SAR

Note: $1USD = 3.75SAR

Second stop, clinic for blood test and eye exam - 60SAR

Third stop, police station for general harrasment and stamping of many documents - no cost

Fourth stop, translation "shack" to have your US license information translated to an official Saudi form, much more stamping - 100SAR

Fifth stop, walk across street to driver license office for more harrasment, raised eyebrows, stamping of documents - 400SAR

All of this took six hours - PRICELESS!