Bright Lights of Jeddah

A friend here said, "Jeddah is prettier at night," and that seems to be true. The Arabic signs all lit up in huge, colorful, glowing clusters on buildings look so exotic, I feel like I'm in another world. Wait, I can make out Pizza Hut by the shape of the rest of the logo, and signs for Krispy Kreme and other icons are pretty easily identified. Most places have a Western version of the logo also, but some signs are only in Arabic and some only in English. Starbucks has a pretty strong foothold here, and the main difference between the ones in the US and the ones here is that here you can smoke.

Some of my favorites: baba ganoosh, hummus and tabouleh

Speaking of smoking, we found that in Jeddah there are family sections in places where hookah are served. We almost, or maybe I should say "I almost" sat down at a hookah cafe a couple of weeks ago that was men only. All restaurants, even Starbucks, have a "family entrance" and a "men only" entrance. The family section is for couples, groups of women, and families, and the men only section is obviously only for men. So far, it hasn't been that big of a deal to keep with the program of entering the correct door. Although we did have to walk way around to the rear of the Italian place we visited last week in Jeddah. The front door was men only. Bill accidentally went in a Starbucks some weeks ago through the family section door. He reported that a group kept cutting in line in front of him, and he kept protesting their "cutting" until he finally got up to the front to order and the clerk told him it was ok this time, but next time to enter through the men only door. Ooops! Well I'm sure I'm not finished accidentally going through the wrong door or making other mistakes.

Italian Restaurant hookah

We had a great time at an Italian restaurant last week. We took the bus in to Jeddah with two friends, and after being dropped on Talia Street (the Fifth Avenue of Jeddah) and receiving loose directions as to where to find the bus again at 11:00, we went off to find a restaurant. Of course we arrived during prayer time again, so we were worried we would have to wait at least another half hour to sit down somewhere. Fortunately, though, the restaurant that one friend recommended was very welcoming. With the prospect of open-air rooftop dining, we were persuaded to try it. We took the tiny elevator to the top floor and walked into a spacious and lovely Italian-style restaurant. Marble floors, floor to ceiling windows, tile accents, and carved furniture made up the decor. Reproduction paintings lined the walls opposite the windows, and fabric swaths framed some of the artwork. Built-in furniture with tile inlay was distinctly Arab, and touches like colorful cups hanging in rows gave an Italian feel. Naturally, we were in the family section, and abaya-clad women occupied most of the tables, some in the company of men or with their children. One huge table of about 20 women appeared to be celebrating something. The atmosphere was laid-back and relaxing. The couches and large, comfortable chairs made it easy to remain there for hours. We weren't able to get a table outside, but we were very happy with our table by the window. We ordered an apple-tobacco hookah, a pitcher of drinks with chopped fruit and proceeded to peruse the menu and enjoy a full 2 hours at the restaurant. A little window-shopping and a bus ride later, we arrived back at home for the night. The bus service is a really nice benefit since it's easy and it's free.